Diane and Jerry in France--the Carcassonne Days

What century is it?

I have been snapping photos at every opportunity, maybe causing some embarrassment in the process, but one day in the future, we will be glad to have these pictures.  I am already glad to have these pictures.

Hats and gloves, vite! vite!

I don't know about this weather--it has been very cold for the past week.  It's not supposed to be this chilly; "they" misled me.  The mistral greeted us when we disembarked from the train on Sunday afternoon.  Diane unpacked on the street to retrieve winter clothes and we walked the few short blocks to the apartment. Jason had turned on the heat in the maisonette, where Diane and Jerry are staying, so it was somewhat warm.  Somewhat.

After getting Diane and Jerry installed in their temporary digs, we all retired to our respective homes for a well-deserved nap.  Carcassone is quite different from Paris; here almost everything is closed on Sundays, and certainly closed by Sunday afternoons.  Because there was nothing open, and Jerry and Diane's cupboard, like Mother Hubbard's, was bare, we went out for dinner.

I do not generally go out at night--not because I am afraid, but because my budget keeps me inside and cooking my own dinner.  While it was a treat to go out, it revealed my ignorance of what is available and open for dinner. We walked up the boundary street of the bastide, up to a little cafe, Brasserie Barbes.  It is basically a sports bar; there was a group of obviously local men in the back watching a rugby match.  It had a very low key feel to it, and it wasn't very crowded.  However, it was open, and more importantly, it was warm....

We were warmly welcomed by the owner and had a lovely dinner.  I had baked camembert and a tiny salad and a wonderful slice of Serrano ham.  Diane and Jerry enjoyed the regional specialty, cassoulet.  It was delicious; every restaurant here in Carcassonne boasts that its version is the best. 

Monday, we went to the Casino--no, not THAT kind of casino--this is the big grocery store outside the bastide-- the #1 bus takes me there.  We stocked up on pantry items and bought some groceries with the intention of cooking dinner. Instead we ended up having baguette, cheese and pate.  On the way there, I introduced my United States friends to my "teacher" at the tabac; she was so gracious and especially nice to Jerry.  

Carcassonne is very compact and logically laid out.  Diane and Jerry have already started making it their neighborhood, too, at least for the next week or so.

 Tuesday morning we went to the market. 

Diane and Jerry try to figure out the amount

Come again, I'm your guy!!

There was one pretty funny exchange with one of the farmers/vendors.  He knew no English and Diane couldn't understand how much her bill was for her radishes and onion.  Finally I came in--I had been off at another stand buying walnuts--and translated.  Then, when all was done, everyone was smiling and equilibrium restored, I told him, "Malheureusement, nous reviendrons." (Unfortunately, we will be back)  He laughed, and so did all of the patrons standing at his booth.  But it was a good-natured laugh, not mean-spirited. He gave a big smile and told me it would be just fine, that he was equal to the task.  Home for lunch.  In the afternoon, they went to the Cite, while I went back home and tried to get some work done.  

Oh, and I had another encounter with my poetry-loving gentleman at the library.  I don't think I have related the story of my flirtation with this man.  Perhaps I will share it later.  This is Diane and Jerry's adventure.  Let me just say that THIS time, he recited poetry to me, gesturing from his heart.  Oh my, indeed.

In order to maximize their visit, we tried to rough out our plans for the next few days.  We ran into Chris and Bob on the staircase, and we visited for a while.  We are all of us going for another field trip on Friday.  That, combined with the Christmas festvities will keep us busy for the next few days.

Lunch at Limoux

Train station at Limoux

Today we took the train to Limoux--there and back for 2 Euros total.

Diane negotiates the ticket machine

Now it's Jerry's turn

 Basically we went there for lunch in the sun at a wonderful seat in the sun.  It's the first time I have seen Jerry coat-less since we arrived in Carcassonne.

Arriving at Limoux  to the sun and warmer temperatures

Piano museum--closed

 So much of Limoux is closed; parts of the town looked empty and deserted.

Fabulous cathedral--closed

 But for 2 Euros, we got to take the regional train, I saw two magnificent great blue herons out in a field,  we got a great view of the snow-covered Pyrenees, and had a leisurely lunch--cassoulet for me and boeuf bourguignon for my Brookings friends.  

Boeuf bourguignon

Delicious cassoulet, but too much to finish it all

 A beautiful day along the Aude River

 Jerry has an over-active imagination.

My two new Limousin friends.....

 I am having great fun being camera woman and taking photo after photo.  I guess if I take enough, one or two of them are bound to be successful.  Tomorrow is a "free" day and I found a place right around the corner to hear and maybe sit in on some jazz.  We will see.  Friday, Jason is taking the five of us out to Peyrepertuse and Queribus, two more abandoned Cathar fortresses.  Bob is crazy for the mountains.  We will be back home for the Christmas festivities.  It's going to be a real Noel weekend here in Carcassonne.

Place Gambetta-the celebration is getting closer!!!!