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Where does the rock end and the fortress begin? |
After lunch at Cucugnan, we drove on to Queribus, another Cathar stronghold. This one looks almost extruded from its rocky perch. It's a little smaller than Peyrepertuse, and they can see one another from their respective peaks. En route, we met several tv trucks, probably coming from Perpignan, which isn't far, as the crow flies. We didn't climb to Queribus; it was just too windy and we were also a little pressed for time. Daylight ends quickly now, and early. Not only did I not want to be driving on these twisty, remote roads, I didn't want Jason to have to be there either. But I suspect that had it been just a smidge clearer, we could have seen the Mediterranean.
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The Mediterranean isn't far, I think. |
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Very, very narrow streets |
The country is wild and beautiful, and it feels remote. Bob and Chris have a road map, as Bob puts it, "The size of a tablecloth." By using that and the satellite GPS, we were able to pick our way through to LaGrasse, arriving there shortly before dusk. The rest of the troupe set off for the Abbey; I set off in search of the rest room.
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Jerry inspects the firewood supply |
LaGrasse also had a deserted air about it. It's an old medieval town that gets more than a few tourists--in season. It's not season right now, so many buildings were shuttered and locked.
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Keep out--yes, this means YOU! |
While roaming around looking for the WC, I did get to see the local school let out, so there was some air of habitation, and "normalcy." I did find the rest room, and almost wished I hadn't. One of those with the ceramic feet....you know what I mean. There was also a regular toilet that was reasonably clean. So, I experienced a different LaGrasse than the rest of my companions...I got to see the cafe and the patisserie, which were both open. I never did get to the Abbey--maybe in the spring.
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I would welcome any insight.